A circular walk from Bowden Kirk

Bowden Kirk

The rural Kirk of Bowden can be found in the southerly shadow of the Eildon hills. Just to the south of the village of Bowden and sitting above the Bowden burn which flows through a small valley towards the Tweed and St Boswells. A mile and a half east of Newtown St Boswells and two miles south of Melrose it is easily reached from several scenic roads. There is ample parking at the side of the newer cemetery if you want to explore the kirk and its older burial grounds. Walking down towards the kirk an ornamental metal gate allows entry to the kirkyard. To the right you can see an old stone stepped mounting block for those who came to kirk by horse back in the day.

Bowden Kirk is believed to date back nearly 900 years where in 1113, the future David I founded an abbey at Selkirk, while his father Malcolm III was still alive. Amongst the estates granted to the new abbey was land at Bowden. Extensive rebuilds have occurred over the centuries, mostly in the 1400's, 1600's, 1700's and most recently in 1909.

One of the most interesting features of Bowden Kirk  is the laird's loft. A wooden gallery which stands against the north wall of the nave. This was built in 1611 for the family of Sir Thomas Kerr, and originally crossed the arch of the north transept. Behind it was a retiring room for the family while below that was the family vault. The central panel contains the Ker shield and crest. On the pediment surmounting the canopy the initials STK stand for Sir Thomas Ker and DGH for Dame Grizel Halket, whilst a board running full length below the Loft bears the cheering verse:

"Behold the axe Lyes at the Tree's Root

To hew doune these that Brings not forth good fruit

And when theyre Cut The Lord into his Ire

Wil them Destroy and Cast into the Fire".

The lairds loft

Outside the Kirkyard is full of old lichen and moss encrusted gravestones, many with the traditional Scottish marks of death and mortality. Though the church is small it has three external stairways and two bells. 

Carvings on the exterior of the church

Maisie making the most of the mounting block

After exploring the kirk and grounds we collected Maisie from the car and went for our walk. This is a circular four mile route from the church, along part of St Cuthberts way and back through fields and old track ways. It was very quiet as these pathways off the beaten track often are, which is why I love finding and exploring them. Walking down the road from the kirk and across the bridge that crosses the Bowden burn we followed the road up to where it turns sharply left to Bowden village. Here in the corner of the road you will find a pathway enclosed by hedges on both sides and marked for St Cuthberts Way. 

The start of the path

These unspoilt paths between ancient trees and old hedges are wonderful, they speak of old routes, forgotten journeys time out of mind and are an escape from the busy modern world. The path eventually heads down hill and because we were walking in winter ankle deep in lots of crunchy beech leaves. It was muddy in places so definitely a walk for walking boots.

Heading down to the river

Lots of crunchy beech leaves

The path opens up at the bottom where it meets the Bowden burn and a wooden bridge to cross. A shallow turn in the river allows for dog drinks and paddles as the burn meanders its way between the trees. I do want to come back in spring and do this walk, with dappled shade from fresh leaes of the trees and hopefully spring bulbs such as bluebells it will look quite different but still enchanting.

Across the bridge and up the small bank with a turn to the left following the river bank through smaller trees to where the path rises up the hill on a series of steps to a wide grassy area. With fields and hedging on the right and the banking and trees down to the river this stretch of the walk is a pleasant wander along a grassy path until we reached a gate and the road that goes through the hamlet of Whitelee. 

The walk along the road from Whitelee was quiet with little traffic and great views of the southern borders and the Eidon Hills to the north. Where the road turns to the left there are wooden sign posts on both sides. We followed the one carved with Eildons directing us across a style and down the field on the north side of the road. Heading down across the field slightly to the left there is a style across the bottom fence. 

The Eildons

Across the field to the style

Once across the style the path heads down some rough steps and to another bridge which crosses back over the Bowden Burn and up the banking to a field. Following the edge of the field to the right and then uphill we came to the road B6398 between Newton St Boswells and Bowden. Cross the road and head up the edge of the next field to the right of the hedge. 

Another bridge to cross

Round the edge of the field

Looking south

At the top of the rise there is another wooden sign post and we followed to the left, sign posted for Bowden. There are more great views of the Eildons to the north and the Borderlands to the south with the Cheviots covered in low cloud. Muddy in places along the edge of the field the path eventually comes out onto a small road weaving through the houses and farm buildings of Whiterigg. Where the road takes a sharp bend to the left we carried straight on through the farm buildings following the tree lined trackway straight ahead. 

The Eildons

Horse at Whiterigg

Heading straight on after the farm buildings

The path becomes more grassy as it reaches the top of the rise, eventually passing through a gate where it joins Bowden common. Here we again joined St Cuthberts Way where it comes down from the Eildons and then left down into Bowden village. Through the play park and left to the village centre and the old well. We took a right here and then left down hill and back out the village to where we started our walk with a short walk back up to the kirk and the car.

These kind of walks are my favourite, lots of different types of walking and views, hidden pathways, old trackways, paths through wooded river valleys, places we've never explored before yet have driven past. Quiet and undisturbed.

Our route

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