Local Walks - The Southern Upland way from Newhall to St Mary's Loch

Running across 214 miles of beautiful and varied country the Southern Upland Way is still undiscovered by many. It starts from Portpatrick on the south west coast and finishes at Cockburnspath on the east. There are no summits above 3000ft, but over 80 rise above 2000ft. Its easy enough to do in sections, with transport at either end or as 12 to 16 days of walking from one side of the country to the other. 

Looking to Innerleithen from the point where I join the SUW
after a steep walk up from the house

Plenty fungi about both in the grass and forestry

We were happy to discover when we moved to this house in December that we were right below the SUW and I would have an opportunity to do some great walking not far from the house. Other than a few short walks from the house to the highest point and back (an hour or so in total) I hadn't had a chance to do much more. Now we are into autumn and I have two days off again I decided it was time to do the walk I'd planned from the house to St Mary's Loch with David collecting Bracken and I at the end. 

Stake Law to the west

The first part is good walking on short grass tracks with fine views all around. To the north Innerleithen and the Moorfoot hills, to the east Minchmoor, to the south the hills of Ettrick Hills and to the west Stake Law and Dunrig. After about 45 minutes I was on the top of Blake Muir, not quite the highest point of todays walk at 467m. The weahter was warm, not too hot, dry, with some cloud and sun, perfect. On the walk up to Blake Muir there are good veiws of the Glen Estate in the next valley. This baronial style mansion was used during the second world war to store paintings from the national gallery in it's cellar.

The Glen from the walk up to Blake Muir

Looking north from Blake Muir

The next part of the walk takes you down the other side of Blake Muir, down across the Sprain Burn and back up the other side. These gentle hills on good paths are great for me getting back into walking and I do love walking the Southern upland hills as you rarely see anyone and the peace and quiet are soothing. Climbing back up the other side of this saddle to the highest point of my walk today at 479m. From here you can see Glenlude down in the valley and beyond to Mountbenger Hill. The next part of the walk can be clearly seen now, the entrance to the path through the forestry. The path now approaches Deuchar Law, dipping down into the Cleuch of Kinchie Cleugh Burn and back up again. 

The forestry ahead, the second section of the walk

Bracken leading the way with Deuchar Law ahead

Looking west from Deuchar Law

Cairn on Deuchar Law

Heading to the forest

Looking north before entering the forest

The next section of the walk is down through the forestry

The path through the forest is completely different and quite a change from walking over the hill tops of the first part of the walk. Now we are totally enclosed by the conifers of the forest, with no views and only the sound of the wind whispering through the tree tops. As soon as I entered the forestry I noticed the forest floor was carpeted with hundreds and hundreds of red mushrooms. It was quite an amazing sight and as is often the case photos don't capture it well enough, but I got few of individual fungi. 

Fungi in the forest

Fabulous fungi

Moss hanging on the trees

While the path makes it way down hill through the forest (I'm glad I was doing it in the direction I was, as its a steep climb up the way), to my right the hill side fell away sharply but this wasn't that obvious from the path as the trees masked the slopes to a great extent. As well as the fungi there were plenty other wildflowers including Scabious, Luzula and Deschampsia.

A stream coloured by iron in the soil, makes a great contrast with the lush mosses

The path through the forest

Scabious

Deschampsia

There was a couple of points I wondered if I was ever going to reach the edge of the forest, lovely as that part of the walk was, it can be disorientating when you have no view. The path is still quite distinct though in longer grass than the hill tops. Eventually I came to the edge of the forestry and over the style and out into open country again. The path exits the forest above the Douglas burn through a plantation of native trees including rowans full of berries. This brings you to Blackhouses where you can see the remains of Blackhouse tower. There is not much left of it, hidden in the trees and weeds at the side of the farm buildings. A strong hold for the Douglas family for centuries, an older tower on the site is said to have been used by The Black Douglas, close friend and supporter of Robert the Bruce. 

Blackhouse with the remains of the tower in the trees to the left

The next section of the walk from Blackhouse the path takes you along the track for a few hundred yard and down and across the bridge that takes you over the Douglas burn. From here you can look back over Blackhouse and the forestry we'd just come through and up towards the head of the glen which was once worked for gold. Once across the bridge we followed the markers skirting around the side of North Hawkshaw Rig. We had to pass through a herd of cattle which can be interesting, but these beasts were very placid and more interested in their grass than us. The path continues onwards dipping down to the Hawkshaw Cleugh, a steep sided burn hidden amongs rowen and hazel. A set of wooden steps takes you down across a wooden bridge, the current one in much better condition than the previous one just a bit further down. Back up some steps and out of the Cleugh and onto rough pature again. Rounding South Hawkshaw Rig we came across another herd of cattle, lovely black shaggy beasts, again, placid and of the type where the calves have those big round teddy bear ears and look very cute! I wouldn't like to try and out run them if I had too. The path crosses a burn here and was a bit on the boggy side, there are a series of wooden walk ways which made it much easier. 

Crossing the bridge over the Douglas Burn

Looking up the Glen

Descending to the bridge across the Hawkshaw Cleugh

We passed plenty good examples of sheep folds on our walk

A quick climb up Mid Hill, the last wee hill of the day and our first view of St Mary's Loch, yay! We could look back towards the forest part of our journey and forwards to the end. From here it was an easy walk back along a farm track, down hill towards Dryhope Tower and St Mary's Loch.

Last wee hill of the day and then its down hill all the way, Bracken on Mid Hill

The end in sight or the end is nigh depending on how you are feelling

St Mary's Loch and the Moffat Hills

Bracken, keen to get this walk done

As you walk down the farm track the imposing sqaure block of Dryhope Tower comes into view. This 15th century peel tower stands on a slight rise where it has commanding views over St Mary's long and the surrounding countryside. Steeped in local history and with connections with poets and scottish literature, its also surrounded by the remains of hut circles and ancient out houses. 

Dryhope Tower

Life in a stone tower

The track goes through a gate here, but the SUW crosses a style and down the side of a field. Through a couple of gates and fields eventually we came to the main road, A 708, to St Mary's Loch and eventually Moffat. Here we hopped over a style, across the road and across another style into the field beyond. 

Crossing the fields to the main road

Old farm buildings

We crossed through another couple of gates and fields and eventually came out onto the track that goes along the south shore of the loch. Once across the River Yarrow we were met by David in the parking area. One tired wee dog that appreciated a treat once in his bed in the car. I didn't feel tired or sore at all which was great as I haven't done any decent walking in a long time. I really enjoyed being out in the hills again and doing another walk and exploring another area of our beautiful country.

Crossing the River Yarrow which flows into St Mary's Loch

 

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